Coach’s Corner Tip
Golf Clubs vs. Bowling Balls
When we first start bowling, that one hard plastic ball is all we need. The most important thing about your first ball is to get one properly fit and drilled for you. This is a bit like learning to play the par-3 beginner golf courses – you really only need a couple of irons and a putter. This month we’ll look at how bowling balls really are like golf clubs.
Now you’ve progressed beyond the plastic ball, and your ready for an entry level Reactive. This class of balls has a reactive shell, but generally has a simple interior construction, as does that hard shell plastic. However, getting a ball with a reactive shell, and hopefully a fingertip grip at the same time will (if properly drilled) help you learn how to roll the ball and learn what the reactive shell can do to help you down the lane.
When you get to the intermediate stage, you’ve moved up into your first performance ball with a shaped core, also commonly referred to as two-piece balls, and they roll much quicker and hit harder. These balls can be either reactive or particle balls. What’s the difference, anyway?
Reactive balls are nothing more than urethane with an additive that creates more friction on the surface. These balls were first released in 1991, and completely changed how we approach the game. As proprietors have put more and more oil on the lanes, a reactive ball has become a necessity for all but the most casual of league bowlers who want to get the ball to hook .
Particle balls are reactive balls with an additive, usually 1-2 micron particles of substances like glass beads, which create a “studded snow tire” effect between the ball and the lane. These balls, in general, grip the lane much sooner, with a smoother path to the pocket. Particle balls come in sanded or pearl versions – pearl particles get further down the lane but still act like particle balls at the back end of the lane.
So, back to our golf clubs. Now you get to the scratch level – does that mean you need 10-14 bowling balls like you do golf clubs? No – you can build a successful arsenal with 5-7 balls. These balls are: 1- Solid Particle, 2- Pearl Particle, 3-Solid Reactive, 4-Pearl Reactive, 5-Spare Ball. These five balls give you a driver, 3 to 5 wood, 3 to 5 iron, 5 to 7 iron and a putter. You’ll be able to cover all lane conditions from very oily to fairly dry, and be able to strike for show and spare for dough.
There are variations of this combination, depending upon your ball speed, rev rate, axis tilt and axis rotation. Slow speed players generally have little need for solid particles, and the same is generally true for high-rev, early roll bowlers. On the other end, low track, or spinner release players need all the help they can get hooking the ball, and generally don’t see their pearl reactives get out of the bag much.
The worst thing we see people do in the pro shop business is try to load their bags with too many of the same type of ball. After all, do you go to the golf course with 5 drivers in your bag, one iron and a putter? Of course not, but that’s what many people do with their bowling equipment.
Balance out your equipment, and have a variety of surfaces in your bag, particularly for tournament competition. You can throw the ball you never put in your bag!
We talked about how bowling balls are like golf clubs, and that you don’t want to have too many of the same type of ball (or “club”) in your bag. This month we’ll talk about being an informed consumer.
Drivers
Drivers – high load particle balls – what does a high-load particle ball do? These balls grab the lane quickly, roll early and hook a lot. They are designed for heavily oiled lane conditions. If you bowl on enough oil to make these balls work, they are magic! However, as soon as the oil in the front part of the lane dries out, they should go back in the bag! If you are a low speed or high rev player, this ball is generally of very little use to you. If you are the opposite – high speed or low rev, this ball will come into play when the lanes get oily, and will bail you out. One thing to note about this class of balls – they roll a lot, but you will not see them “flip” at the back. This group of balls burns up energy throughout the lane, and so they don’t have enough left at the back to make a violent move at the end.
3-5 Woods
3-5 Woods – medium to light load particles, particle pearls and solid reactives – so what’s the difference? First, some solid reactives are so strong that they can be your “driver” – examples of this are the Brunswick Ultimate Inferno. In general, pearl particle balls get through the front of the lane easier, and save more energy for the back end of the lane. They will make a more aggressive move at the back end (a strong arc), but are not the “flippy” balls either. Soild reactives will make a stronger move at the back, ranging from an arcing reaction to a very strong arc, almost flippy.
Long Irons
Long Irons – solid reactives – a basic ball to have in the bag. There are many solid reactives, and a few pearl reactives with stronger shells (Brunswick Inferno) that should be the first performance ball you ever purchase. These balls generally have medium to high hook ratings, feature strong roll in the mid-lane and strong backend, and are very versatile. One or two solid reactives will cover a wide range of conditions and provide you with a predictable reaction. If you purchase two solid reactives, get one with a higher hook rating and one with a medium-low hook rating.
Short Irons
Short Irons – less hooking solid and pearl reactives – because the lanes WILL start to hook. In today’s bowling environment, if you apply any amount of hook at all to the ball, and use any performance ball, the lanes will start hooking more, even in a 3-game league session. If they break down a lot, you may need to go to a ball that skids farther down the lane before hooking – these are the pearl reactives. If the ball burns up too much energy in the front of the lane, it can’t make a strong move back to the pocket. Pearl reactives save energy when the lanes start hooking.
Putter
Putter – get a spare ball. If you’re competing seriously, you either need to throw the ball very straight or get a spare ball. Strike for show and spare for dough. The tougher the shot, the more spares you need to make.
Finally, tailor all this to your bowler type. If you’re a “down and in” player, get more equipment that hooks more sharply at the back of the lane. If you’re get a lot of revs and generate a lot of back end reaction, get equipment that is not so strong at the back. Go towards strong equipment if you have trouble hooking it, and weaker equipment if you have trouble not hooking it.